Dries Van Noten delves into layered tailoring – a signature style that is both chic and playful. The designer combines patterns and sparkles into a line-up of tailored coats and loosely worn dress shirts. The result is a sophisticated collection that evokes dream culture and desire with a nod to Gustav Klimt and the ’70s.
Amid a burgeoning interest in nostalgia, Van Noten looks back to the peacock as its spring motif. The designer’s reference to the ornamental ostentation of the bird is partly a nod to the eclecticism of Gen-Z design taste. At the same time, it also offers a counterpoint to a trend toward quiet luxury.
Van Noten’s usual masculine/feminine proportion play was in place, with club jackets defined by their pagoda shoulders matched to Bermuda jorts and cute deconstructed tennis sweaters. He also worked with fabric and shape, bringing drapey elements to an otherwise sleek silhouette and pushing the limits of what you can do with a pair of skinny jeans.
The textured silk and velvet fabrics were given a fresh twist with their draping shapes and contrasting layers, while satin was used to create a soft shimmer on blouses and dresses. The designer’s signature lace is also shown in new ways, layered with transparent wool and silk to make for a delicate yet structured top. Van Noten also pushed the envelope on what you can do with a blazer, adding a full skirt to the classic blazer and pant combo for a less formal and modern look.
Despite the rich color palette, which included rust, ecru, and lilac, the collection had a sense of calm. The pheasant feather, which popped up in the hair of some models as well, was an elegant accent that was both a nod to Art Nouveau and a rejection of traditional ideas of glamour.
Van Noten, one of the Antwerp Six, has a loyal fan base and is known for his unique approach to mixing lavish prints and patterns. Puig, a Spanish perfumes and fashion company, owns him.
Front row guests included Japanese influencer twins Ami Suzuki and Aya Suzuki, known as Amiaya, who wore matching silver metallic coats and boots, and French “War of the Worlds” actress Lea Drucker. After the show, Van Noten bowed, waving to the audience, who applauded. Shop the latest collection from Dries Van Noten, including this ‘Love Forever’ maxi skirt crafted from glossy satin layered with pinstriped wool for a mini-skirt effect. Team it with the coordinating blazer to mirror the runway styling. This item is available online and in stores. To order, click on the link below the image. Delivery is free to UK addresses on all orders over £100. Orders are shipped the next working day. Returns are accepted within 30 days. For more information, see our Terms & Conditions.