A star-studded moody Autumnal collection dominated by enveloping outerwear and shearling trims proved that Burberry’s creative director, Daniel Lee, is making headway with his repositioning of the British heritage brand. The former Bottega Veneta designer on Monday showed his third brief at London Fashion Week, which is celebrating its 40th anniversary. He delivered an ode to the brand’s outdoor heritage for the luxury house’s autumn-winter 2024 collection. The show, set in a dark marquee in London’s Victoria Park where guests sat on oversized fluffy brown cushions, was attended by stars including Naomi Campbell, Barry Keoghan, and Central Cee. Lee, whose predecessor Riccardo Tisci departed the company in September, has defined and refined his vision for the brand.

The 166-year-old label is synonymous with outerwear, and Lee doubled down on that reputation. The collection saw funnel-neck moleskin versions of the trench coat, abbreviated parkas and puffers, and hefty shearling jackets. The texture of the fabric was inspired by British and Irish wool and textiles, he said. Long pleated skirts, zip-front trousers, and a myriad of oversized knitwear also offered functional, outdoorsy sensibilities. Extra-long, chunky wool scarves — often in sage and slate gray tones and draped in a balaclava style over the head — rounded out the looks.

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In footwear, Lee reimagined some iconic styles, including its tan leather moccasin and suede hiking boots, fashioned into mules and knee-high boots. The new designs were distinctive enough to appeal to shoppers searching for status-signalling accessories. Lee, who led the revamp of Italian fashion house Bottega Veneta, is under pressure to produce a winning collection for Burberry, battling a slowdown in demand for luxury goods.

The show was a reminder of the rich heritage that underpins the label and how much its enduring style has been influenced by the world outside the home, in particular by nature and the city of London. The collection also tapped into current themes in menswear, such as the blurring of gender lines.

It was the second time this season that Lee has showcased a mix of womenswear and menswear in a single presentation, which he said allowed him to explore his vision for the brand thoroughly. Lee’s first collection in October — which featured layered denim pieces, underwear as outerwear, and perforated dresses with see-through PVC hats — had been inspired by the beach, which he described as “a place of democracy, of community.” The brand is taking a bold step forward in sustainability this year, with all shows and presentations certified carbon neutral. It will also hold a series of events around the theme, from designer Q&A sessions to workshops on zero-waste craftsmanship and upcycling, at venues across the capital. In addition, Number 10 Downing Street is hosting a panel discussion on the future of fashion.