Hermes opened up Paris Fashion Week with a catwalk lined with rain curtains. Biker boots and studded leather jackets marched past the falling droplets, parading the sleek lineup of fall/winter leather ensembles. Creative director Nadege Vanhee added country and western flair to the Parisian house’s equestrian-inspired collection, but she also retained her signature elegant sense of style.
Biker boots are a significant trend this season, but Hermes’s calf-hugging pair looked more like one would wear to a rodeo than on the runway. This brand is favored by women who have the luxury of knowing they can buy anything—even riding boots—and still look sophisticated doing it. That Hermes woman is the sort of woman who keeps her private thoughts to herself but carries a sturdy, embossed leather bag that’s perfect for riding or stomping through rainy streets.
Hermes’ equestrian roots are obvious but subtle in the fall/winter collection as Nichanian adds a feminine sensuality to tweeds and wool while keeping Hermes’ trademark elegance intact. She infused the collection with her love of the English countryside fantasy —think a tailored shirt with a slit paired with trousers that flared in a boot-cut and worn with sharp-toed ankle boots in cowboy style —and the Hermes heritage of quality and craftsmanship.
She’s an expert in proportion, ensuring that Hermes looks modern and lust-worthy but never overwrought. Hermes has been in the hands of the same family for six generations, and its iconic pieces (including Kelly and Birkin bags) are held to a high standard of quality and unparalleled design.
It’s a mark of her talent that even as she delves into new territories—like designing cotton corduroy of such fine wale width, it almost feels smooth—Vanhee-Cybulski hasn’t lost sight of the house’s core values. This is a designer who understands that trends come and go but that Hermes’ clientele, from It girls to royalty, will always be there to shop.
After a brief stint at Maison Martin Margiela, a few years at Celine under Phoebe Philo, and a run as design director for Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen’s The Row, Vanhee-Cybulski has carved out her distinct aesthetic and made Hermes her own. Now, with a new job, she’s ready to take Hermes into the next chapter of its story.
