In a remarkable feat of endurance, their team said a Norwegian woman and her Nepali guide set the record Thursday for the fastest summit of all 14 of the world’s 8,000-metre (26,000-feet) mountains. Kristin Harila and Tenjin Sherpa — known as Lama — completed the challenge in three months and one day after summiting Pakistan’s K2, the last peak on their quest, besting the previous record of six months and six days set by Nepal-born British adventurer Nirmal Purja in 2019.
Sherpa, 29, began his career in 2000 as a porter and guide for several climbing expeditions before becoming a full-time climber. He is also a mountain guide and an accomplished skier, having reached the top of Everest five times. He and his wife, a Sherpa, run their company, Sherpa Expeditions.
The team’s statement praised Harila and Lama for their “unwavering determination, teamwork, and sheer tenacity throughout this monumental endeavor.” The pair started their quest on July 16 when they set off from Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, and headed north toward Shishapangma, the highest peak in Tibet. They then climbed five other mountains, including Cho Oyu and the second-highest peak in the world, Makalu. The next step was to summit K2, considered the ultimate goal for many mountaineers.
It is regarded as the most technically challenging of the 14 “super peaks” because of its unpredictable weather and high elevation. It has only been scaled by 425 people since 1954, including around 20 women. K2 is a notoriously tricky climb and has been a primary focus for Sherpa.
Harila credited her success to her Sherpa. “Lama’s invaluable expertise and profound connection with the mountains played an essential role in navigating treacherous terrains and harsh weather conditions,” the team statement read. Harila has a bachelor’s degree in psychology from the University of Oslo and a master’s in human rights studies from the Norwegian School of International Development. She worked in conflict resolution and peacebuilding before turning to mountaineering.
This year has already been an exciting and historic season on the world’s tallest peak. May 23 – Bart Vos became the first Dutch person to reach Everest’s summit. May 26 – Tim Macartney-Snape and Greg Mortimer became the first Australians to summit, pioneering a new route up the Great Couloir on the North Face – dubbed ‘White Limbo.’
Cathy O’Dowd became the first American woman to summit solo and without oxygen. May 13 – Japanese Ken Noguchi was the youngest to summit, aged 25 years 265 days old. He also became the youngest person to climb all seven summits.
